I am in the process of converting a boat over from a carb 350 to a TBI 350, I am getting the donor wiring harness, ECM, throttle body, etc. from a 1995 Chevy K1500 Blazer. I have been working on the ECM end of it to figure out what needs to be done for the motor to operate correctly. I do know that there are several things that need to be changed such as switching it to open loop for the o2, coolant temperature needs to be changed according to the low temperature thermostat etc. My main concerns are trying to get the computer configured for the least amount of cash outlay, and getting it to work correctly. I have downloaded the Turbo Tuner program and have started to play around with that, but with my limited to no knowledge of the programming I don't really know what I am looking at. (I am going to pull the computer tonight that way I can get the numbers off of it) I have tons of questions but the major ones are:
1) Is the computer able to be flashed or reprogrammed without having to but expensive programmers, chips, software?
2) Is it cheaper or better to send the computer off to have it reprogrammed to fit my needs?
3) I do have a Snap On MT2500 scanner with the cables ( which looks like a standard serial cable) and the OBD1 connectors and keys, can this be used to connect to a serial port on a laptop and configure the port so that the cable and adapters can be used with the Turbo Tuner program?
Any help, guidance, suggestions, words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.
Carb to TBI conversion
Moderators: robertisaar, dex
-
robertisaar
- Author of Defs
- Posts: 962
- Joined: Sat Feb 21, 2009 3:18 pm
- Location: Camden, MI
a 1995 K1500 w/350 is likely a 0D or 0E calibration... so software and stuff would be free, it's either buying a burner and chips or having someone else tune it that would cost you money.
also, what is this "turbo tuner"? i've never heard of it until now. and the cable from the scanner is likely just that: a cable. it probably doesn't have the necessary components built in to convert the serial signal to a RS232 signal that the laptop would need to communicate with it.
also, what is this "turbo tuner"? i've never heard of it until now. and the cable from the scanner is likely just that: a cable. it probably doesn't have the necessary components built in to convert the serial signal to a RS232 signal that the laptop would need to communicate with it.
Sorry in my haste to get this question posted while at work I spoke of the incorrect program. I have the Tuner Pro software download from this site.
I have gotten home and removed the computer from the truck. It has the Serv. NO of 16167427. If you open the door on top of it it has what appears to be a removable carrier with a blue top. It has Delco silk screened on top of it with 8067 and BJLF on top of it. If you look through one of the circles to what appears to be a chip it has three sets of numbers: 4143, 1617,4895.
As far as the cable goes it pins out as a standard DB-9 serial connector, the kits has the adapter that plugs into the cable that allows it to connect to a OBD1, OBD2 etc connectors.
If it is cheaper to send the computer off to be programmed I would be open to suggestions on whom to look for, this is not something I need "tomorrow" but I am looking to have it done soon.
I have gotten home and removed the computer from the truck. It has the Serv. NO of 16167427. If you open the door on top of it it has what appears to be a removable carrier with a blue top. It has Delco silk screened on top of it with 8067 and BJLF on top of it. If you look through one of the circles to what appears to be a chip it has three sets of numbers: 4143, 1617,4895.
As far as the cable goes it pins out as a standard DB-9 serial connector, the kits has the adapter that plugs into the cable that allows it to connect to a OBD1, OBD2 etc connectors.
If it is cheaper to send the computer off to be programmed I would be open to suggestions on whom to look for, this is not something I need "tomorrow" but I am looking to have it done soon.
-
robertisaar
- Author of Defs
- Posts: 962
- Joined: Sat Feb 21, 2009 3:18 pm
- Location: Camden, MI
ok, BJLF is a 0D BIN.
the cable sounds like the average scanner cable: has all of the important parts inside the scanner itself. i have a diagram i made(modified from techedge) that you could use to build your own ALDL cable if you're skilled with soldering.
as for programming it, you could pickup a BURN2 from moates for about ~$85, a couple of chips for ~5 a piece and either an adaptor that plugs into where the MEMCAL(the whole piece with the blue cover) would go, and you plug the MEMCAL you have now into it, and basically bypass the factory programming, allowing you to control it however you want.
or if you're really good with a soldering iron, you could desolder the existing chip, solder in a new chip for $5 and then just have to plug it into a HDR1($10) from moates, and then into a burner, then you would be able to burn cheaper that way.
i'm not sure why you would want to disable the O2, since as long as the exhaust is setup right, you should be able to keep it and benefit from it, rather than running in open loop all the time. being in a boat, i imagine it will be direct drive, right? and what about coolant? are you going to be running electric or mechanical fans?
that being said, i can modify the MEMCAL and burn a new one for you when you would need it for a little over the cost of the chips required...
the cable sounds like the average scanner cable: has all of the important parts inside the scanner itself. i have a diagram i made(modified from techedge) that you could use to build your own ALDL cable if you're skilled with soldering.
as for programming it, you could pickup a BURN2 from moates for about ~$85, a couple of chips for ~5 a piece and either an adaptor that plugs into where the MEMCAL(the whole piece with the blue cover) would go, and you plug the MEMCAL you have now into it, and basically bypass the factory programming, allowing you to control it however you want.
or if you're really good with a soldering iron, you could desolder the existing chip, solder in a new chip for $5 and then just have to plug it into a HDR1($10) from moates, and then into a burner, then you would be able to burn cheaper that way.
i'm not sure why you would want to disable the O2, since as long as the exhaust is setup right, you should be able to keep it and benefit from it, rather than running in open loop all the time. being in a boat, i imagine it will be direct drive, right? and what about coolant? are you going to be running electric or mechanical fans?
that being said, i can modify the MEMCAL and burn a new one for you when you would need it for a little over the cost of the chips required...
Ok I just now got the cable in my hand and I was mistaken, it is not a standard DB-9 cable so thats out of the question.
I will send you a PM on the MEMCAL parts.
As far as disabling the o2 sensor, the boat has wet exhaust and there is not a good place to put the o2 sensor that that would read the exhaust from both banks. The boat has a Alpha-1 drive so the idle rpm,s have to be low enough to allow it to go into gear with out tearing the whole upper unit apart.
The cooling is done through a water pump and heat exchanger so there is no need for a fan, radiator etc,. From some of my research I have found that most boat thermostats are rated at about 120 degrees.
I will send you a PM on the MEMCAL parts.
As far as disabling the o2 sensor, the boat has wet exhaust and there is not a good place to put the o2 sensor that that would read the exhaust from both banks. The boat has a Alpha-1 drive so the idle rpm,s have to be low enough to allow it to go into gear with out tearing the whole upper unit apart.
The cooling is done through a water pump and heat exchanger so there is no need for a fan, radiator etc,. From some of my research I have found that most boat thermostats are rated at about 120 degrees.
-
robertisaar
- Author of Defs
- Posts: 962
- Joined: Sat Feb 21, 2009 3:18 pm
- Location: Camden, MI
interesting stuff.... i haven't seen too many EFI boats in my time...
as for the O2, it wouldn't have to read both banks, just one bank without any water getting up into it. but if that's still proving challenging, assuming no radical changes have been made to the motor that would effect fueling, richening up the open loop AFR a little bit should be safe.
idle speed is very easily adjusted.
as for the O2, it wouldn't have to read both banks, just one bank without any water getting up into it. but if that's still proving challenging, assuming no radical changes have been made to the motor that would effect fueling, richening up the open loop AFR a little bit should be safe.
idle speed is very easily adjusted.
-
Six_Shooter
- Posts: 590
- Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 7:32 am