A9L,GUFB.
Looking at the table vs the graph.
Graph is not smooth, peakes and valleys.
If I am to make sure I understand what I am doing, the lower part of the Graph, which is in Blue, dictates rich?
The red at the top would be Lean?
Would a smooth flow of the graph be a benifit?
Also, Moving the graph towards the higher load and a smaller AFR is adding fuel?
I just want to make sure I am doing this correctly. It's one of those things that the longer you look at it, the more confused you get.
Just need someone to verify what I am doing.
Thanks for any help!
Fuel Base Table
Moderators: Mangus, robertisaar, dex
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Craig Smith
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Mon Oct 23, 2006 5:22 am
- Location: Mauldin, SC
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Fuel Base Table
1986 Jauguar XJ6 with a transplanted 95 LT1, 1990 5.0 LX Mustang, MSD6AL, MSD Blaster coil, Shorty headers, no cats, h pipe, flow masters, Edlebrock Performer intake and plenum, Aeroquip pressure regulator.
Smaller A/F ratio numbers mean a richer mix so you are correct that blue is indicating a richer mix than red.
The shape of the graph is a result of many, many hours Ford have spent in climate controlled dynamometer rooms and represents the ideal A/F ratios for the variety of conditions the engine is designed to cope with. This means it's very hard to say what is best to do with a modified engine as you generally want as little fuel as is necessary for the best power and only add extra if needed cooling purposes. Without tuning on a dyno you inevitably go with the feel of things and put more fuel in than is necessary, ideally as well as a wide band you would use an EGT gauge too. I know I've not really answered your question about smoothing things off but hopefully helped in another way.
The shape of the graph is a result of many, many hours Ford have spent in climate controlled dynamometer rooms and represents the ideal A/F ratios for the variety of conditions the engine is designed to cope with. This means it's very hard to say what is best to do with a modified engine as you generally want as little fuel as is necessary for the best power and only add extra if needed cooling purposes. Without tuning on a dyno you inevitably go with the feel of things and put more fuel in than is necessary, ideally as well as a wide band you would use an EGT gauge too. I know I've not really answered your question about smoothing things off but hopefully helped in another way.
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Craig Smith
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Mon Oct 23, 2006 5:22 am
- Location: Mauldin, SC
- Contact:
Of course you helped Dex.
Explain to me the graph/Table Temp.
Where does the temp varable come in?
Atmosphere/Outside temp?
It would make sense except for the -30
At minus 30, I wouldn't be driving a car!!!!
My butt would be indoors where it's warm!!!
Explain to me the graph/Table Temp.
Where does the temp varable come in?
Atmosphere/Outside temp?
It would make sense except for the -30
At minus 30, I wouldn't be driving a car!!!!
My butt would be indoors where it's warm!!!
1986 Jauguar XJ6 with a transplanted 95 LT1, 1990 5.0 LX Mustang, MSD6AL, MSD Blaster coil, Shorty headers, no cats, h pipe, flow masters, Edlebrock Performer intake and plenum, Aeroquip pressure regulator.
-
Craig Smith
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Mon Oct 23, 2006 5:22 am
- Location: Mauldin, SC
- Contact:
-
Craig Smith
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Mon Oct 23, 2006 5:22 am
- Location: Mauldin, SC
- Contact:
Dex,
I guess cutting to the chase, I need to add fuel in the 2,000 RPM range to 5,500 RPM at WOT.
What is the best way to do this?
Is it not the Base Fuel Table?
I guess cutting to the chase, I need to add fuel in the 2,000 RPM range to 5,500 RPM at WOT.
What is the best way to do this?
Is it not the Base Fuel Table?
1986 Jauguar XJ6 with a transplanted 95 LT1, 1990 5.0 LX Mustang, MSD6AL, MSD Blaster coil, Shorty headers, no cats, h pipe, flow masters, Edlebrock Performer intake and plenum, Aeroquip pressure regulator.